Origin of Sri Lankan sweetmeats

The Aluth Avurudu Mesaya (New Year table) is laid out with kiribath, kevum, kokis, athiraha, aasmee (or assadha) aluwa, mun aluwa and some other traditional sweetmeats with plantains. Among these foods, kevum takes pride of place.

Traditionally kevum has to be prepared by the housewife. Once prepared, the sweetmeats are stored in chatties or cane boxes not only to adorn the festive table, but also to be distributed among kith and kin.

In ancient times when paying homage to the king during the New Year, the chieftains had to bring thegi bhoga (gifts and grain) including the compulsory food, kevum.

Even today, this custom is followed by villagers who carry a Kevum pettiya (box full of sweetmeats) to the homes of loved ones.

A European trader, Cosmas, noted that kevum had been taken to the Roman court of Emperor Claudius during the 6th century. Cosmas, who visited Ceylon in 545-550 AD, mentions that gold, gems, pearls, delicious fruits, Kevum and Kalu dodol from Ceylon were presented to the royal court by the country’s ambassadors.

Generally, oil cakes are made of rice flour mixed with treacle fried in coconut oil. Pouring the batter for a kevuma into a sizzling pan of oil, the shape is made with a thick spike or pol iratte from the centre. This requires much skill. The kevuma is taken out of the boiling oil, when it turns gold colour, and as such, it is called ran van kevum.

The Dhathuwansaya noted that, there were 18 kinds of kevums; Sedhi Kevum, (kevum made by the spoon) mun loalu (Kevum made of green gram flour), ulundu kevum, kevum made of ulundu flour), uthupu (kevum made by using coconut shell) and ginipu (fire kevum).

Another delicious one is the konda kevum, the upper part of which resembles a knot of hair.

Another is naran kevum, which takes the size and shape of a mandarin. It is prepared to a different recipe, with the batter being more like the rotti mixture, with coconut and smeared with sugar syrup. Garappu kevum (oil cake made with a fork) would have come after the arrival of Europeans, who introduced the fork to Ceylon. Here the batter is put on a fork, rolled into a cigarette shape and fried.

The pana kevum (oil cakes made of scum or froth) is a rare variety these days. It took the shape of a comb. Undu kevum is mentioned in the verses of devil dances and ritual ceremonies, with the demon of the cemetery said to be very fond of this delicacy.

Diya kevum is meant to be a liquid food prepared for those who cannot digest the more rich, oily kevums.