A meal for every mood

An Evening of Atomic Materialism at TAO, Cinnamon Grand

By Eleni Kirby

The term ‘Epicureanism’ refers to a system of philosophy based upon the teachings of Epicurus in 307 BC. Our man Epicurus was, like myself and all the other Foodies out there, an ‘Atomic Materialist’, in possession of a tireless devotion to the pursuit of sensual pleasure - especially to the enjoyment of good food and comfort. What a sensible man - what a philosophy!
Tao at the Cinnamon Grand Hotel is the setting for Chef Suresh Senaratne’s new Epicurean endeavour – a twenty four dish spectacle screaming flavour, colour, and splendour for all the Epicureans among us, and how ready I was to sample this astonishing feat of Atomic Materialism.
‘I wanted to create an entirely new experience with the Epicurean Menu – it is a journey that will take you to different lands’, says Senaratne. Here is a menu that quite literally seeks to indulge your every hearts desire – from fresh seafood to shellfish, succulent meat’s to vegetarian; a menu that takes us through no less than seven starters, three soup dishes, a seven dish main, and finally - naturally, a seven dish desert course of pure Epicurean indulgence. Not in the mood for blueberry? Senaratne has strawberry’s, chocolate’s and caramel’s; tart’s, coulis, and sorbet’s.
As each dish is brought out, I am struck by their beautiful intricacy. These are plates of food that dwell determinedly upon each sense in turn; his creations explode from the centre of crystal white plates, each a miniature work of art – the colours are astonishing – rich, and inky balsamic reductions, the succulent rouges of melting lamb, avocado greens, mango yellows, the rich red’s of berry compotes – his dishes are designed to dazzle. It almost seems a shame to eat them – though one cannot resist for long. Eager to include my neglected senses I seize a fork and continue to indulge.
And which ingredient is your favourite to work with? I ask. Our chef looks perplexed,
‘One? How can I choose? I love chilli’s of course, but herbs and spices take a dish to a whole different level. I chase the “Kick”’
This is clear; Tao’s Epicurean food pirouette’s off the palette and will not be restrained. I sample a salsa, exploding with colour from a miniature shot glass which I am told and quickly discover is a shot glass full of exactly seven different flavours – we have coriander, chilli, lemon grass, white wine vinegar… How does one begin to create such a culinary masterpiece? This Epicurean menu is vast – one can describe it as no less than a feast of extravagance. Tangy mango salsa atop delicate slices of subtly smoked turkey; almost contradictory flavours; yet the two combine harmoniously, resonating from the plate in leaping colour, bursting from the tongue in rich and wordless flavour. Senaratne’s Espresso crème brûlée is in a league of its own. A silklike consistency, smooth, fabulously light, enables the beautiful kick of its rich espresso flavour to speak for itself in the thick sultry tones of fresh coffee beans. A delight.
It is perplexing to consider how such variation has been maintained, and with such a consistency of flavour. Each one of his twenty four dishes stand apart from the other; each plate possesses its own personality– no one flavour is the same, no one dish resembles the other, no one ingredient is used in the same way. Tao’s spread is truly astonishing. ‘A chef cannot be born in one day; this menu is subject to months of development. We are specialists’, Chef Suresh laughs. But when does one stop? I ask. With such a diversity of flavours in one dish, when does one say enough is enough, this is my final dish? ‘My challenge is always to find The Taste. When my satisfaction is exceeded, only then do I stop’.
I discover the origins of these multituding flavours stem mainly from Chef Senaratne’s travels. A chef for eleven years and keen pupil of his mother as a child, Senaratne claims to be a particular fan of Middle Eastern cuisines; ‘My travels took me to Dubai, where the range of nationalities introduced me to an equally broad spectrum of cuisine’. Such influences are clear in his dishes which travel from Thailand, China, the Middle East, Europe; each maintaining a distinctly Sri Lankan something. An Edge; coriander’s, limes, chilli and sugar.
And the key to your success? I ask.
‘I created this menu, yes, but there are some people that worked really hard with me; Executive Chef Ranjith Morugama, Chef Chaminda Liyanage, and of course my fantastic staff. They are really hard workers. We are bound to each other’.
Tao’s new Epicurean Menu ensures something for everybody, from vegetarians to meat lovers, sweet fans to the health conscious, Senaratne states; ‘Even a small kid will enjoy this menu. I have created a menu for everyone’. And our chef has not stopped here – Tao’s Epicurean Menu at the Cinnamon Grand will rotate every month to boast a further twenty four culinary triumphs. Chef Senaratne’s has achieved the unthinkable; his food is a marvel to the tongue and eye, a mouth wateringly, tongue tingling portrait of splendour. I urge you to head down to Tao, where the new Epicurean Menu is within your reach every Thursday of the month, and join Epicurus in his pursuit of sensual pleasure.